Wednesday, 17 September 2014

Fashion Week Relevance

The state of the fashion industry is forever changing, this idea is not a secret that we gossip about in the cocktail lounge, but a reality that every designer must now think about while they create a new collection each season. The sad reality is that labels, magazines and respective stores have absolutely no clue how to find the right recipe to succeed in the fashion scene today with the amount of influence coming from each direction imaginable. 

Spring/Summer 2015 has hit a stone wall if you ask me so far, New York Fashion Week has been split by competition with Milk Made Studios, which have featured the more emerging (and maybe most interesting) designers that have fresher takes on what is the new demand. With the increase of attendees for MBFW, not including the number of individuals watching the runway from the comfort of their computer screens, the resulting collections left much to be desired. It must be said that Spring/Summer is the least inventive of the semi-annual collections, but if anyone was looking to spend cold hard cash on an entire collection, you might as well hold on to last year's purchases.

The key word that many designers forgot this time around was relevance. With the intense competition coming from global positioned conglomerates (hence the news of Jean-Paul Gaultier's end of RTW), and the copies being streamed by fast-fashion manufacturers, if your collection breathes no new life into the future, you are as good as dead and I hope you have a good financial backer. However, in spite of the deja-vu many names associated with classic staples took to making this season a time for reminding consumers that they are not one trick ponies.

The name that many are still talking about is Ralph Lauren, who made good use of both his Polo and namesake collection lines to offer a new perspective on a label known for sportswear and everything from shirting to bedroom linens. The 4-D holographic runway show staged by Polo on the Central Park fountain was a stroke of modern genius typically suited for a higher end brand in Europe, therefore sparking a new life in a quintessential NYC brand. As for it's higher end sister, the season's biggest trend in my opinion will come from the "American Romance" looks of combining long sleeve blouses with maxi length skirts that were prominent towards the end of the show.

Relevance is also injecting perspective, and listening to the beat of street influence, which was key to a standout Coach SS15 season. Stuart Vevers' second collection was colorful and full of character (pun intended). Fun fur, cartoon images, and animal print helped relieve the boring vibe that plagued Coach for the past few years, pinning the brand as one of those "mall stores" no more. Luckily with the new direction and repositioning strategy, there may be a chance for new life to come.

Coach SS15

View the 4D  SS15 Polo Ralph Lauren Womenswear Below

Saturday, 13 September 2014

Gloves Off | Alexander Wang for H&M

Collaboration, seems like the word I'd have thought Anna Wintour would have used instead of "Journey" in her 70+ question rapid-fire on Vogue's website. I am definitely not against the idea of creative geniuses combing together, but every time I open the internet, the announcement of a new project seems dulled everyone is talking about it at once.

Let me add some gas to the fire surrounding the Alexander Wang and H&M collection to be launched November 6th, Wang being the youngest to partner with the Swedish giant for the worldwide capsule project is also the most talked about in terms of street fashion culture. Whether innovating the concept of fashion-sport with his own line, or reinventing the codes at Balenciaga, Wang was a strategic name to add to the H&M roster in a time where normcore (elevated classic pieces) are the go-to in style selection.

By now in mid-September pieces are being leaked out by large publishers and highly respected online outlets in editorials, but no official lookbook has been seen in it's entirety. Since the entire collection is still an enigma (minus the Rihanna NYFW blip) the images that have sufaced give us a good amout of foreshadowing to get our minds wandering.

This first set has been said to be looks from the actual H&M lookbook. Judging by the first two, this may be the first collection from the series of designer partnerships that wont have us freezing by the time November. Weather aside, the sandals are calling my name. 

Hats, Bags. Gloves if you look not so closely you can really get a hint at the logomania trend throughout, which may be hinting at some trends for the coming seasons (think: Louis Vuitton Celebrating Monogram Project.) Personally, I will be looking for the sans-name pieces for myself. 

GQ UK posted a full editorial on the Men's collection, shedding light on accessories like boxing gloves and sunglasses printed clearly with "WANG" along a minimal concrete landscape. Up until this point the focus leans heavily on a more masculine aesthetic which is always present at AW who has never been overtly feminine in design until the recent SS15 Collection at NYFW

ELLE Magazine has also joined the sources hinting to the upcoming release of AW X HM, sharing the feminine (or somewhat) looks like the dress and wide legged pants along with the designer himself. Not having bought the newest edition yet, there are probably more looks within the pages. 

As the days get nearer, its obvious that the stream of sneak-peaks will invade in swarms. Until then, I'll decide the pros and cons of facing the crowds at the unveiling, if the T by Alexander Wang "Secret Sale" shock video rings true, gird your loins.

Monday, 8 September 2014

Black and Bloom

The trees may be on the verge of calling a quits, but one thing that keeps blooming is that good old D-CONSTRUCT sense of style. I must admit that for a blogger (If I still call myself one), I am a HUGE repeat offender. As the site continues, and those few style posts seep out, I realized how much I like to wear the same stuff. My justification relies on the deconstructed mantra I have built over the past three years, buy basics you love and update sparingly. 

Currently my closet is going through a major rebirth, when I was starting out in Montreal I had this phase where the Salvation Army was my haven, and now I find myself needing to give away the same shirts that were once someone else's. I am not discouraging the art of the thrift, but I think I had a serious addiction with the amount that has refilled my plastic bags, at least my really classic plaid blazer and trench coat survived the cleanse. 

By this paragraph you're probably thinking "Dom, what are you blabbing about?" but I have a point, I promise. As style conscious individuals, we symbolize the flower, blooming at periodic intervals, these are moments where our personal style has achieved an evolution. The key to keeping in-sync with your inner self is to take the change in steps. Today, I get the occasional nostalgic topic of "remember when you used to wear xyz?" as I traded my slacks and loafers for cargo pants and Doc Martens, a big change that took three years to achieve. 

Moral of the story remains: bloom quietly and gradually until you find the place your style peaks. Keep the good pieces along the way, and reuse them along with your new experimentations, take it from a stylist, the only worse thing than being safe, is looking lost.

PHOTOS: Sarah Monaco of I Bleed Fashion
Pants: Zanerobe

Tuesday, 2 September 2014

A.S 98 Fall 2014

If you really have been following D-CONSTRUCT since day one, you know by now that I have a penchant for all things that evoke a certain flair for edgy and talk-about eccentricity.When I first changed my personal style I had that "thrift shop" mentality, causing me maybe to look more like a retirement home resident, rather than a Dapper Dan like my contemporaries.

Today, the word edgy has become so generalized that it barely becomes recognizable. My own version refers to adding urban appeal to a classic piece or ensemble, like a leather perfecto paired with a crisp white shirt and jeans.

Every fashion sector of the world has a signature for what they believe is "edgy", take for example Italian fashion house A.S 98 with whom I had the pleasure of witnessing their Canadian launch earlier this season. Leather houses have a long history with being considered champions of the most empowering material in outerwear. Leather, especially in footwear has to be of highest quality, and with the clientele of today, the finish on a piece of cowhide mast be noteworthy.

A.S 98 follows the Italian trade mark for color in footwear, because have you ever seen someone in Italy without at least one jaw-dropping piece of apparel in a striking hue? Personally I am a sucker for a shoe with buckles and straps, and the styles have the ability to contain so much design without making a massive foot shape. Designer Frank Prenntzell successfully churns out international flair without the gimmicks, and this is only shoes, the list of accessories for men and women have the same style lines a shown, even celebrities like Johnny Depp have been known to wear them (hello, name drop). Cargos, Jeans, or plain white tee, A.S 98 is not only synonymous with our deconstructed way of life, but it can definitley teach us how to create our own definition of edge,

A.S 98 // FALL 2014


Monday, 1 September 2014

Temperature Change

September first is a date that comes with more importance than most of it's 364 colleagues. This is a holiday with less notoriety than Christmas and Easter, but subconsciously when we hear the words "Labor Day" we know the year has officially made a descent towards the end.

Locally, we have no clue what to wear anymore. The concept of giving up on a summer we never really had haunts us. Retail was hit hard in turn, sales started early because as we know, you can't stop the delivery calendar. But now we prepare ourselves for change,  "Sweater Weather" ushers in the Back-to-School mood, and not to mention those Starbucks Pumpkin Spice Lattes.

Change is good however, I personally have accepted a full-time spot at the place I've been with for the past year, I have published my first printed interview and will be planning a second before the winter holidays, and lastly I said goodbye to a dear friend who moved to Paris for her studies. You win and you lose some.

Speaking style-wise because I don't plan to bore you with my philosophy all the time (just most of it), I do have a large portion of my heart set on knitwear. The best pieces I own are pullovers, and cardigans because of their versatility, and overall usage with anything in my closet.

Have you been eyeing a new pair of black jeans, wear it with a sweater. What contrasts best with a nice heel? A new knit. My newest discovery is featured in today's post from local Montreal boutique: Three Monkeys. Usually I am not one for clothing with too much writing, but the comfort and texture of my BWGH "Brooklyn Parle Francais" pullover merited no second guesses.

SWEATER: BWGH at Three Monkeys
PHOTOS: Sarah Monaco of I Bleed Fashion

Thursday, 17 July 2014

The Need Aesthetic | Rag & Bone Menswear SS15

At this day and age I must admit that I have a love-hate relationship with fashion's newest trend cycle. I remember looking through the magazines at the nearest grocery store and thinking to myself "Wow, that's imagination." 

Maybe we have grown a little wiser in the amount of five years that I have been really implicated in the industry, but nowadays designers have gone into more basic items known as "normcore". Without looking at couture, the ready-to-wear market has made a killing this year with the reinvention of the white t-shirt, making it slouchier and pairing it with the boyfriend jean and a pair of Manolos. I am not criticizing what can be called a fashion cleanse, but have we just woken up to the realization that fashion must still be ultimately wearable?The best way I can illustrate my point is to talk about brands that have never been known for their eccentricity, and who have made a following off reinvention before it was cool. 

Marcus Wainwright and David Neville run New York based Rag and Bone with an aesthetic genius that caters to men and women that never conform to trend fluctuations, but instead find themselves choosing pieces that evoke modern interpretations of timeless garments. Having only started the label in 2002, by 2007 Rag & Bone won the Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in menswear, and following the prestigious acclaim in 2010 was awarded Menswear Designers of the Year by the CFDA. 

The Summer 2015 Menswear collection was presented with its photographs on a gallery wall, featuring men and women of different shapes, sizes, backgrounds, and ages. A true testament to the versatility of the brand, Wainwright and Neville executed their mission statement clearly whether it was comedian Jerry Seinfeld, makeup guru Gucci Westman,  or punk band singer Honor Titus. 

Is this a sign of collections to come? Clothing that appeals to both sexes has found its way back into wardrobes with the arrival of the normcore flux. If the following pictures are just a taste of modern gender-less apparel, the allure is remarkable. 

Tuesday, 1 July 2014

Laruelle Sportswear SS14-15

Count on global warming to make this July an epic scorcher so dress accordingly. Luckily if you happen to be around Montreal there is one designer collection that can put you directly on-trend, and not break your bank account. 

I might need to jump into a pool of ice water after seeing the exclusive SS15 Sportswear capsule collection from Laruelle. Vibrant, Modern, and affordable (we're talking 50$-200$ CAD) so good, too bad this isn't menswear. 

Staying true to the Laruelle DNA, the nine looks feature minimal cuts, color blocking, and just the right amount of sexy. Summer vibes are upon us, time to flaunt. 





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